Vestoj x VNIVRS – Vestoj http://vestoj.com The Platform for Critical Thinking on Fashion Thu, 04 May 2023 05:45:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.5 Vestoj x VNIVRS: Constellations in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-parallels-and-constellations-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-3/ Fri, 28 Feb 2014 02:29:17 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2726 STAGED IMAGES COULD BE said to imitate the visceral realm of real life in their meticulous orchestration. As spectators, our perception is equally manipulated as it is lead through these dimensions. Images invite our senses to indulge themselves in a real experience of a fabricated reality.

This series by VNIVRS examines the parallel visual elements that emerge across creative practices that engage with this relational experience. Our first instalment, ‘The Green Tint’ looks at the coinciding elements of the colour green which, besides symbolising nature, fertility and life, also suggests harmony, balance and learning. It embodies our desire to expand and increase, while it can also be seen as a safe and restful colour. In the following images green is used as a raw element material for lighting, set and tone.

Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2001 ‘Voss’, still from video.
Lauren Greenfield, ‘Fina, 13 in a Tanning Salon, Edina, Minnesota’.
Sky Ferreira, ‘Night Time My Time’ album cover, 2013, Photograph by Gasper Noè.
Kira Bunse, ‘Never Want to Put my Feet Back on the Ground’, Masses Magazine, Issue 1, spring/summer 2013.
Guy Bourdin, from French Vogue, circa 1970s.
Steven Meisel, ‘Models Enter Rehab’, Vogue Italia, July 2007.
Berndnaut Smilde, ‘Carcass Divided’, 2009.
Kyung Woo Han, ‘Green Room’, 2009.
Tatiana Trouvé, ‘From Here I Disappear’, 2009, photograph by FBM Studio, Zurich.
Elmgreen & Dragset, Prada Marfa (interior), 2005, photograph by Art Production Fund.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.

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Vestoj x VNIVRS: Constellations in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-parallels-and-constellations-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-2/ Fri, 21 Feb 2014 00:00:45 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2619 IN THE DISTRIBUTION OF truths in a theatrical, fashion and art context, glass and windows can play a discrete yet significant role. A material that moves between obstruction and amplification – being used to focus or divide subjects on a stage – glass reinforces theatre and fashion’s tradition of trickery and deception.

A person on stage has a dual experience: as witness to immediacy of her own presence, and also as a spectacle consumed by the audience. This parallel positioning and distance is manipulated even further by the use of glass, whereby the image of a subject might be fragmented, divided or isolated as a figure on stage.

‘Geometric forms inhabited and activated by the presence of the viewer, [producing] a sense of uneasiness and psychological alienation through a constant play between feelings of inclusion and exclusion.’

 – Dan Graham

Dan Graham, Two-way Mirror Punched Steel Hedge Labyrinth, 1994-1996, courtesy of the artist and Marian Goodman Gallery, New York/Paris.
Dan Graham, Ying/Yang Pavilion, 2003.

‘Within theatrical jargon a syntagm fourth wall stands for the imaginary, fictive partition between the actor and the audience […] Spy-glass mirror acting as the front wall of the cube, separates the encapsulated stage from the voyeurist audience, which the actors now cannot see, facing instead their own multiplied image.’

– Description of ‘Inferno / Divine Comedy’ directed by Tomaz Pandur and written by Dante Alighieri, at the National Theatre Maria Guerrero, Madrid 2005.

‘Inferno / Divine Comedy’, written by Dante Alighieri, directed by Tomaz Pandur, scenography by Numen, 2005.

‘[…] the front gauze flew up and the lights brightened to reveal an impressive, appropriately rather gloomy set, with huge windows set at an angle and letting us understand that the “cart” had, in fact, been a centrally placed four-poster bed […]’

– ‘The Turn of the Screw’ directed by Benjamin Britten, 2010, review by Peter Lathan for The British Theatre Guide.

‘The Turn of the Screw’, directed by Benjamin Britten, adapted from the story by Henry James, 2010.
‘Faith, Hope and Charity (Glaube Liebe Hoffnung)’, directed by Christoph Marthaler, written by Ödön von Horváth and Lukas Kristl, scenography by Anna Viebrock, 2012.
Macbeth, directed by Dmitri Tcherniakov, opera by Guiseppi Verdi, conducted by Teodor Currentzis, 2009.
Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2001 ‘Voss’.
Mango, spring/summer 2011, Madrid.
Guy Bourdin for Vogue, 1975.
Steven Meisel for Vogue, September 1993.
Jil Sander spring/summer 2000 campaign, photography by Mario Sorrenti.
Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.
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Vestoj x VNIVRS : Constellations in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-parallels-and-constellations-in-art-theatre-and-fashion/ Thu, 13 Feb 2014 09:38:10 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2543 AS AN AUDIENCE WE empathise with a subject, in an exchange with the objects of our gaze: posing a relational question between spectator and spectacle. Exploring the dynamic between staged and artificial forms of time and space with an audience, this second series of images renders visible a few examples of enactments where the box is used as an object to channel suspension in a vacuum. Viewing a subject in a box, or similar cubic structure, has an inherently corporeal effect, creating a parallel, imaginary experience for the viewer. There is the potential for a moment where the viewer is held hostage within themselves, an external, out-of-body sensation.

‘He started to depict specific details in the backgrounds of these works and created a nuanced interaction between subject and setting. Figures are boxed into cage-like structures, delineated ‘space-frames’ and hexagonal ground planes, confining them within a tense psychological zone. In 1952 he described this as ‘opening up areas of feeling rather than merely an illustration of an object’.’

– Text from the Francis Bacon exhibition at Tate Britain in 2009

Francis Bacon, ‘Head VI’, 1949.

‘Man is an abyss – you feel giddy when you look into it.’

– ‘Wozzeck’ by Alban Berg

Alban Berg, ‘Wozzeck’, 1925, view from re-enactment at Royal Opera House, London, 2013, photograph by Catherine Ashmore.
Tilda Swinton; Joanna Scanlan; Cornelia Parker, ‘The Maybe’, 1995.

‘The protagonists are observed,’ as the composer Luca Francesconi explained, as if they were ‘… some bugs in a terrarium.’

Luca Francesconi (Heiner Muller, 1981-1982), ‘Quartett’, view from Teatro allo Scala, Milan, 2011, photograph by Rudy Amisano.
Botho Strauss’ ‘Big and Small’ (‘Gross und Klein’), 1978, directed by Benedict Andrews at the Sydney Theatre, 2011, photograph by Lisa Tomasetti.

‘I was looking at it on the monitor, watching everyone trying not to look at themselves. It was a great thing to do in the fashion industry—turn it back on them!’

– Alexander McQueen1 

Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2001 ‘Voss’, catwalk view.
Alexander McQueen autumn/winter 2002 campaign, photograph by Steven Klein.
Dsquared2 autumn/winter 2010 campaign, photograph by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.
Tim Walker, ‘Far, Far, From Land’ for W Magazine, 2014.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.


  1. http://www.style.com/stylefile/2010/02/mcqueen-the-showman/ 

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Vestoj x VNIVRS : Constellations in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-parallels-in-art-theatre-and-fashion/ Wed, 05 Feb 2014 23:33:30 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2493 TO END THIS COLLABORATIVE series we look at the levels and layers of a stage set: the physical presence that acts as a gate to the viewer’s parallel consciousness. A subject is projected or suspended as a magnified and isolated version of herself on stage, her subconscious is suddenly and clearly manifested and consumed by the audience. Distance is the function for the immediacy of events on stage, hence increasing the need to put others and ourselves on a sort of pedestal in order to be conceived as close. This contra-relation is rendered visible in the following images illustrating the layers – both in set and projected image – that are used in the visually constructed realms of theatre, fashion and art.

‘Fröken Julie’, written by August Strindberg, directed by Katie Mitchell, 2013.
‘The Metamorphosis’, written by Franz Kafka, directed by Alex Ollé, 2005.
‘4-48 Psychosis’, written and directed by Sarah Kane, 2004.
‘Tristan and Isolde’, written by Wieland Wagner, directed by Peter Sellars, scenography by Bill Viola, 2005.
Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2010 ‘Plato’s Atlantis’.
Lacoste, spring/summer 2012.
Cecil Beaton, Vogue, 1944.
Peter Lindbergh, 25 Magazine, autumn/winter 2013.
Dolce & Gabbana, spring/summer 2003 campaign, photography by Steven Meisel.
‘The Life and Death of Marina Abramovic’, directed by Robert Wilson, 2012.
Thierry Mugler, autumn/winter 1984.
Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2000 ‘Eye’.
‘Three Tall Women’, written by Edward Albee, directed by Allison Narver, scenography by Matthew Smucker, 2010.
Nina Ricci, spring/summer 2014.
Bill Blass, autumn/winter campaign 1994, photography by David Seidner.
Chanel, spring/summer 1997, photography by Karl Lagerfeld.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.

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Vestoj x VNIVRS: Forces in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-forces-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-explosions/ Thu, 19 Dec 2013 22:51:29 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2271 WATER – IN ITS VAST eternity – reaches the infinite within us, connecting the single entity into a whole. One drop within a body of water expands to the entirety of the sea; birth, flooding, drowning. Life and death are held within the liquid mass of water, and can deliver us back to the beginning of it all. Through water, we are held within ourselves, and we project our own image onto it. We find ourselves seduced by the sub-conscious dream, only here does our body allow us to meditate on our void; shifting attention from the outside world and creating a space for healing, transformation and rebirth. The immersive qualities of the earthly elements embody and saturate us wholly.

‘The external spectacle helps intimate grandeur unfold’1 wrote the philosopher Gaston Bachelard. To take notice of our perceptions, let them rush in, blow over us, is a post-modern ritual, replacing ancient and religious modes of delivery: cleansing and healing. In consuming a spectacle, our senses are engaged. In this experience, we project our image, suspending it in space, meditating on our own void. In search of answers, we turn to spectacles that captivate our senses: art, theatre, fashion and cinema.

Bill Viola, ‘The Crossing’, video/sound installation, photograph by David Heald, 1996.
Alexander McQueen, autumn/winter, 2004.

 

 

‘Like the sea, it reveals the depths of being within us.’

– Philippe Diolé2

 

 

Random International, ‘Rain Room’, 2012.

 

 

Fendi, spring/summer, 2014.

 

 

‘When the waters rise, humanity will go back to the place from whence it came. “but then again, I’m no Nostradamus…”’

– Alexander McQueen3

 

 

 

Alexander McQueen, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, spring/summer, 2010.

‘Every time I view the sea, I feel a calming sense of security, as if visiting my ancestral home; I embark on a voyage of seeing.’

– Hiroshi Sugimoto4 

Christian Dior, Cruise, 2014, photograph courtesy of Bureau Betak.
Hiroshi Sugimoto, ‘Seascapes’, 2006, installation view at the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, Washington, US.

‘Why is the spectacle of the sea so infinitely and eternally agreeable? Because the sea presents at once the idea of immensity and movement.’

– Charles Baudelaire5

Bill Viola, ‘The Messenger’, 1986.
Peter Sellars’ production of Richard Wagner’s, ‘Tristan und Isolde’, 2004, installation view at Opéra National de Paris, featuring a video by Bill Viola.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.


  1. G Bachelard, The Poetics of Space, Beacon Press, Boston, 1994, p. 182. 

  2. P Diolé, The Most Beautiful Desert of All, Jonathan Cape, London, 1959, p. 14 

  3. http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/alexandermcqueen/archive/?years=2010#id_article=260 

  4. http://www.sugimotohiroshi.com/seascape.html 

  5. C Baudelaire, Intimate Journals, Dover Publications, New York, 2006, p. 90 

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Vestoj x VNIVRS: Forces in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-forces-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-desert/ Thu, 12 Dec 2013 23:50:40 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2161 PHILIPPE DIOLÉ (1908-1977) was adventurer; travelling both under the sea and through the desert, he left behind beautiful comparisons between the two vast elements. He mirrored each of their qualities and effects upon the human condition; referring to the desert as the earthly twin of the sea, and stating ‘When consciousness makes its way beyond this wall, it achieves the greatest of all transitions: the transplanting of the inner man.’1 In the desert there is a sacred calm; an aerial void consumed and produced within oneself. It has thus been used throughout history and contemporary culture to represent an edge, or threshold, to reality in order to render a transcending experience; an ultimate sense of freedom and a gate to the beyond.

While the desert is often a source of inspiration for film and art, it delivers other creators back to a place in their memory too, fuelling a desire to create a sensory experience from this context. Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte grew up in this setting, stating in an interview with Maurizio Cattelan that, ‘upon seeing our collection completed we began to see its connection to the arid desert landscapes that we had grown up with… We are attracted to imperfection and to the beauty of chaos.’2 Or in Philippe Diolé’s words, ‘a vast pandemonium frozen into stillness.’3

‘Voyage d’Hermès Pure Perfume’ by Hermès, 2012, still from video.
Louis Vuitton, spring/summer 2004, photography by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.
Kenzo, 1983, photography by Hans Feurer.
French Vogue, September 2007, photography by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin; and American Vogue, July 1968, photography by Franco Rubartelli.
Robert Smithson, ‘Spiral Jetty’, 1970, photograph by Georg Steinmetz.
Elmgreen & Dragset, Prada store in Marfa, Texas, 2005, photograph courtesy of Art Production Fund.
Phillip K Smith, ‘Lucid Stead’, 2013, photograph by Steven King photography courtesy of Royale Projects.

‘Lucid Stead is about tapping into the quiet and the pace of change of the desert. When you slow down and align yourself with the desert, the project begins to unfold before you. It reveals that it is about light and shadow, reflected light, projected light, and change.’

Phillip K Smith III4

Britney Spears’ announcement of her residency at Planet Hollywood, Las Vegas on Good Morning America, September 17, 2013.
Rodarte, spring/summer 2009, photograph courtesy of Bureau Betak.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.


  1. P Diolé, The Most Beautiful Desert of All, London, Jonathan Cape, 1959, p. 207. 

  2. Flash Art, ‘A Material World’, Issure 277, March-April 2011, http://www.flashartonline.com/interno.php?pagina=articolo_det&id_art=698&det=ok&title=RODARTE 

  3. Interview with P Diolé, The Spectator, 23 April 1959, p.29. 

  4. http://royaleprojects.com/lucid-stead#/i/1 

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Vestoj x VNIVRS: Forces in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-forces-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-fog/ Thu, 05 Dec 2013 22:20:09 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=2107 FOG IS A VISUAL spectacle brought about by natural and man-made forces alike, bridging the gap between dream and reality. Appearing through incense in religious rituals, from Ancient Egyptian culture to Judaism and Christianity, there are inherent healing and transformative qualities in the vision of fog, offering a cleansing space through its rejuvenating properties. A smoky haze of fog also arises from fire; in the aftermath of a blaze, the obliteration it leaves behind presents a blank canvas, a possibility for new life.

Fog is a milky veil that suggests transformation, magic and spectacle. Transcending into another mode of being is indeed an act of magic, to overcome our bodily qualities if only for an instant. Today, as much as in Ancient times, there is a need to experience a sense of salvage and so these acts continue to form part of our contemporary rituals and spectacles.

‘The Adoration of the Magi’ (detail of tapestry), Edward Burne Jones, 1904.
John Galliano for Christian Dior Haute Couture, autumn/winter 2000.
Kanye West’s Yeezus tour, photograph by Tommy Ton.
Berdnaut Smilde, ‘Nimbus d’Aspremont’, 2012, photograph by Cassander Eeftinck Schattenkerk.

‘I love the idea of working with almost nothing — light, air, smoke. Like a cheap magic act.’

Rick Owens

Rick Owens, autumn/winter 2013, photograph by Andrea Macri.
Rick Owens NY Hudson store fog installation, 2008.
Robert Wilson, ‘The Life and Death of Marina Abramovic’, 2011.
Antony Gormley, ‘Blind Light’, 2007.

Never can there come fog too thick, never can there come mud and mire too deep, to assort with the groping and floundering condition which this High Court of Chancery, most pestilent of hoary sinners, holds this day in the sight of heaven and earth.

Charles Dickens, Bleak House, 1853.

Jason Wu, autumn/winter 2012.
Jeppe Hein, ‘Smoking Bench’, 2002.
Damir Ocko, ‘Spring’, 2012, film still.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.

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Vestoj x VNIVRS: Forces in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-forces-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-storm/ Fri, 29 Nov 2013 00:26:05 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=1985 NATURE CONTINUES TO FASCINATE us: we observe in awe from a distance its potential for violence and physicality. Impressed and over-powered by fear and respect for this great and unknown, we try to imitate and re-create these forces, or domesticate them to a scale we can control. In beholding spectacles of nature, we have an intuitive reaction to that which can conquer us, and it will forever have this potential.

Storm insists on change as an element of movement, its force and eternal mission derives destruction from flow. When it crosses us, its urge of movement requires an abandonment of our old thoughts and actions. We move where the wind blows us. In this fight for our own existence, we adopt the characteristics and patterns of movement of such forces of nature. Subjects move with the order of nature, and it will forever hold this power over us.

Katsushika Hokusai, The Great Wave, (wood block print), early 1820s.
JMW Turner, ‘Snow Storm – Steam-Boat off a Harbour’s Mouth’, 1842.

‘It is the principle of “correspondences” to receive the immensity of the world, which they transform into intensity of our intimate being’

Gaston Bachelard, The Poetics of Space, 1994. 

Atelier Brueckner, ‘Magic Box’, State Grid Pavilion, EXPO Shanghai, Better City – Better Life, photography by Roland Halbe, 2010.
Alexander McQueen, autumn/winter 2003 ‘Scanners’.

‘Art imitates nature, and it is the part of the same discipline to know the form and the matter up to a point.’

R P Hardie and R K Gaye from Physica in The Works of Aristotle, 1930.

Tokujin Yoshioka, ‘The Snow’, installation view at Mori Art Museum, 2010.
‘Solo Echo’, 2012, Nederlands Dans Theater.
Lacoste autumn/winter 2012, photography by Yannis Vlamos.
John Galliano, autumn/winter 2009.

 ‘Oh, and there’s Night, there’s Night, when wind full of cosmic space

Fling that emptiness out of your arms

into the space we breathe – maybe that the birds

will feel the extended air in a more fervent flight’ 

Rainer Maria Rilke, the first elegy in Duino Elegies, 1930.

Storm over Alaska, Satellite image from NASA, 2011.
‘Symphony in D Minor’, Patrick Gallagher and Chris Klapper, 2012.

Anna Ellinor Sundström is a photographer, filmmaker and founder of VNIVRS.

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Vestoj x VNIVRS: Forces in Art, Theatre and Fashion http://vestoj.com/vestoj-x-vnivrs-forces-in-art-theatre-and-fashion-water/ Thu, 21 Nov 2013 12:29:03 +0000 http://www.vestoj.com/current/?p=1877 IN THE FINAL INSTALMENT in the series of forces in art, theatre and fashion we turn our attention to the phenomenon of the ‘explosion’. In opposition to water – the origin of earth, fire is its antagonist, with a force to destroy and to leave an empty surface where there once was life. In order to be reborn, we must let destruction in; only therein can we create ourselves anew.

The physical presence of explosions are at once catastrophic and annihilating, yet utterly fascinating. Perhaps it is exactly these qualities and beliefs, those of the apocalypse and the end of the world that deliver us equal fear, equal calm. In striving to create something new, we must not be afraid to obliterate the past.

Roy Lichtenstein, 1965-1966.
Nick Knight, paint explosions, from Another Man, autumn/winter 2005.
Robert Longo, ‘Untitled (Nagasaki, B)’ from the series ‘The Sickness of Reason’, 2003.

Michelangelo Antonioni, final scene in ‘Zabriskie Point’, 1970.

‘Scars of damage and disruption are the modern’s seal of authenticity; by their means, art desperately negates the closed confines of the ever-same; explosion is one of its invariants. Anti-traditional energy becomes a voracious vortex. To this extent, the modern is myth turned against itself; the timelessness of myth becomes the catastrophic instant that destroys temporal continuity.’

Theodor Adorno, Aesthetic Theory, 2004.

Eyal Gever, ‘Nuclear Bomb’, May 2012.

‘If you could record an explosion with a high-speed camera that takes one thousand images per second, for example, you’d see a thousand pictures. If you hung them up you’d see a thousand different sculptural forms. Crazy! The form changes constantly. So much is happening. So much happens in a thousandth of a second. Yet the explosion is the opposite: there’s a bang, and then it’s done.’

Roman Signer, interviewed by Armin Senser for BOMB Magazine, autumn 2008 

Alexander McQueen, autumn/winter 2011 campaign, photograph by David Sims.
Olafur Eliasson, ‘The Large Iceland Series’ 2012, photograph courtesy of the artist and Neugerriemschneider, Berlin.
Roman Signer, ‘Aktion in Sedrun’, 2010.
Beyonce, music video for ‘Mine’, 2013, video still by Pierre Debusschere.
Alexander McQueen, autumn/winter 1998 ‘Joan’.
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